1-22-20 - Leanne - Alpacas, temples and mummies

Reynaldo wasn’t going to let us miss one more Sun Temple before leaving Cusco this morning. We head to one at the top of a hill and he leads us down this path literally cut through stone that is 15 feet high. “How in the heck did they make this?” Leanne wonders.  

At the end of the path, we enter a manmade cave. Reynaldo wanted to show us exactly where they bring mummies to freeze dry them in the cool temperatures of the cave.  The cave would have been lit up by a large sheet of gold that reflected the sun in one corner. By this time we l thinking this guy is obsessed with death and mummies.  Yesterday he even pulled out a photo of a 15th century mummy they found in his hometown Chincero.  Leanne starts to wonder how she’s going to make it through alive this week. (Ok kidding). 

Our next stop is to an Alpaca farm where we feed llamas, Alpacas and even wild guanacos. I’ll be honest — I can’t tell them apart. There we were caught in yet another dreaded tourist shopping trap.  Oh boy they ARE all over the world. The Demonstration-then-hard-sell-local-community-made shop.  For the demo, we learn the feel of real Alpaca and of quality hand craftmanship. Even shown the natural vegetable dyes used to create the colorful Peruvian clothing.  An hour later, we walk out with alpaca hats, scarfs and wraps.

Next we head Pisaq, a restored Inca village, set high in the Andes mountains.  It is located in the Sacred Valley and it housed controllers, spiritual leaders, religious leaders and agricultural workers.  But the highlight is the agricultural terraces with its advanced irrigation systems.  As we ascend to the mountain top, Reynaldo pointed to large holes in the adjacent mountain. 

“Those are for the mummies” he shares, as he zooms into the gravesites to show us the few remaining skeletons exposed in the holes. “Do you see them?” Again the mummies, thinks Leanne. This guide is definitely obsessed! Actually, mummies were a big deal in Inca life. Apparently being a mummy wasn’t half bad.  You still partied, owned land, and were worshipped by your descendants who would carry you around to your mummy social events. Seriously. For further study, watch Extra Credit Inca videos. Fascinating.

Apparently the Spaniards tried to destroy most of the Inca culture after finding the worship of idols, mummy life and the (now contested) human offerings not quite in sync with Catholicism.  But most of what we know about Inca way of life comes from a book of drawings that was hidden for years.  In fact we really don’t know how the Inca actually lived as they had no written language but it sure can make a “ruins” tour more interesting by talking about mummified ancestors buried with their gold. Worked for the Egyptians.  

On the way from Pisaq, Leanne notices more buildings painted white with “Somos Peru” slogans.  She inquires. Reynaldo explains last year Peruvians threw out their entire Congress; and elections are this Sunday.  Phew, we will be in Ecuador on Sunday! We really don’t want to be in a country during any election drama - no matter where it is. 

We then stop into a small village and silver factory to learn how they find and make silver. Yup, purchase.  Fell for trap yet again. But the sales kid wasn’t a day over 15 and he was so nice. 

Last stop Ollantaytambo.  Say that fast three times.  It’s another Inca village with a sun temple. This one is perhaps the most interesting because it had a face carved in the side of the adjacent mountain facade and some of the best examples of mountain storehouses that helped the Incas feed their population and withstand famine due to their preservation processes. 

We end early for the day at 4 pm.  Yes that is early. Enjoyed some downtime and a nice meal together in the hotel. Peruvian national dish Lomo Saltado and Pisco sours.  Yum! Off to bed noticing rain again tonight and this mother, wife and aunt worries about her boys up in those Andes. Prayers said.