1-29-20 - The abduction that wasn't
/Ok, wake up happy because today we get to sleep in until 6:45 am. Breakfast 7 am and pickup for hike in the wetlands of the The Wall of Tears National Park at 7:30 am. So so reasonable. Sensing some teens might need a break, we make today’s Adventures optional and five of seven join for morning hike. The wooden bus drops us off and we are pouring sweat just standing there due to the heat and humidity. By the end of the hike we are thinking we might be half our size after sweating out a million gallons.
We hike up to “Los Tunos” where we witness a pink lake compliments of algae flanked by endemic cactuses, vast lands and a volcano in the distance. It had a kinda-Pepto-Bismol-coloring but that wording might not sound as ethereal as the moment right now.
Our guide tells us the story of the Wall of Tears as he points to a building surrounded by walls in the distance. During World War II, the United States built a military base there to protect against a potential Japanese invasion coming up from South America. After the war, it was turned into a penal colony as there was virtually no way to escape the remote island. The guards created a work project as a punishment for being sent there that the inmates had to build a 25 meter (65 feet) tall wall surrounding the prison. Inmates in the sweltering heat would have to collect heavy rocks from all over the island and haul them back and build the wall. It is said that thousands of inmates died building the wall over a fourteen year period. It is called wall of tears because it is said to emanate eerie cries and have a heavy energy surrounding it.
Eventually a few prisoners did escape the island and brought the Ecuadorian authorities back to witness the inhumane conditions upon which it was shut down in 1959. The government release all the prisoners most of whom actually stayed on the island. As a result, our guide tells us that most people on the island descended from either the prisoners or the guards. Our guide’s grandfather was a prison guard within this penal colony so the guide’s father grew up at the prison camp. Unfortunately, his father witnessed brutal acts that he could not even talk about. This dark part of Galapagos history is a tough story to hear and stands in stark contrast to the pristine natural beauty and wildlife for which this archipelago is best known.
Next we hike to an organic beach with a small lava tunnel. Above the tunnel, we can see the intertidal landscape that offers a tapestry of Galapagos Sesuvium between El Túnel del Estero and Love Beach.
We see that there are a huge number of iguanas all over the black volcanic rocks at the beach. But they look more like pre-historic dinosaurs than iguanas. Some are as long as large dog. Many of the males are squaring off and fighting with each other. “This is straight outta Jurassic Park!” Kyle exclaims excitedly as he loved dinosaurs as a kid. Should we video or slow-mo this action shot? Decisions, decisions.
Next we hike to a freshwater river hidden in what has now turned into a jungle landscape of the wetlands. We hear splashing and rushing water just around the bend from where we can see. Kyle is convinced a pre-historic crocodile the size of a T-Rex is going come rushing down the river to ensure our demise. Boy, he IS seeking adventure these days!
Our guide tells us how he was born on this island but there was no real infrastructure, no electricity, everyone farmed and there was no school system as kids started working on the farm as soon as they were able. His parents moved to Guayaquil so that he could attend school and receive an education. As an young adult, he then returned to the Island becoming a guide in 2005. The island of Isabella just opened for tourism in 2005 when the first hotel was built.
We even run into a juvenile tortoise strolling up the road before we arrive at the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center. We learn all about the Island’s turtle conservation efforts as several of the species endemic to the Galapagos were near extinction until the breeding centers on several islands were established. This center has bred and released over 2,200 tortoises into the environment and has 700+ more born in the center that are waiting release. The turtles need be five years when their shell is fully hardened and can protect them before they can be released from the center.
We get back to the hotel just before lunch and Kyle takes an ocean dip body surfing next to an iguana. The Galapagos has the only species of iguana in the world that can swim. Kyle has become quite the Crocodile Dundee here in Galápagos — trying to kiss sea lions, swim with sharks and pet and body surf with iguanas.
It’s ungodly hot and we reapply sunscreen again trying to cover up all our portions of our body that have already been kissed way too much by the screeching hot Equatorial sun. Leanne’s neck is a fall shade of maroon by now and is still a couple more sunrays from bursting into flames.
Our afternoon excursion is to Tintoreras Islet and yet another uninhabited lava rock island. Tintoreras is the local name for the white tipped reef sharks that come to congregate here. The boat we are on is closer to a water taxi than the real speed boats we’ve had the last two days. In addition to us, there are three Germans, two Austrians and another couple. The Austrian couple ask the other couple where they are from.
The woman lowers her voice to hushed tones and says, “well….you see….well…the thing is…we’re pretty embarrassed about this…well…ummm…we just don’t like to talk about it…well….ok…” Tintoreras Islet Kyle is thinking, “oh my God, where in the hell can they be from that is sooooooo bad they won’t even talk about it.” The woman lowers her voice to barely a whisper and says, “we’re from the United States.”
After exploring the rock island, it is time for swimming with the sharks. After all, if the islet is named from the Tintoreras sharks, it must have hundreds of them teaming about Kyle is thinking excitedly. We enter the water and Kyle immediately swims off in search of sharks. The guide reprimands him saying that he has to stay with the guide and group to which is not happy as he can swim three times faster than the guide.
We come upon a juvenile sea lions frolicking in the water. Kyle swims down and starts playing with him as Justin and Corey get some amazing underwater go pro footage. The sea lion swims off and Kyle is so caught up in the moment that he follows in hot pursuit. After a while, Kyle runs out of air and comes up but he a fair distance from the group and gets reprimanded by the commando guide yet again.
Kyle returns and asks where are the sharks? The guide responds we will see them. We swim some more and the guide points out an eel on the bottom. Interesting but where are the sharks Kyle asks. We will see them. We swim some more and the guide points out a colorful fish. Somewhat interesting but where are the sharks Kyle asks. We will see them. We swim some more and the guide points out a starfish. Less interesting and where are the sharks Kyle asks. We will see them. We swim some more and guide points out a rock. Ok, this is getting ridiculous.
Kyle can’t tell if the guide knows exactly where to find the sharks and is just saving them for the grand finale or has no clue where to find the sharks and is desperately hoping he runs into one. The guide leads us into rough waters where the waves are threatening to slam our fellow snorkelers into the rocks. Kyle can tell without a doubt now that the guide is desperately looking for a shark, any shark, even if it means losing a couple snorkelers to the rocks.
Kyle is right next to the guide who seems to be struggling with his swimming in the rough waters while the rest of group is trying to catch up. The guide excitedly points out a shark to Kyle. Finally, it’s about time. The shark is swimming at a good clip and Kyle starts off after him but he has already disappeared into a rock cave and out of view.
The rest of the group catches up and everyone is asking where the sharks are and why someone named an islet after the sharks when there are none here. The guide says, “no, no, no, there was a shark, there really was, he saw it,” as he points to Kyle. Kyle did see the shark but is still not happy that the clueless guide reprimanded twice and decides to have fun with it. “Huh? I thought you were pointing out another rock,” Kyle responds. The guide’s face is a look of complete disbelief as the rest of the group says that they think it’s time to go back. “Just kidding, I did see the shark,” Kyle finally comes clean. Although Kyle’s not sure if that really makes the rest of the group feel any better as they still spent an hour and didn’t get to see a shark.
Meanwhile, back to Leanne. Halfway through the snorkel, the second mate - or at least who she thought was the boat’s second mate — offers Leanne a ride on the life ring. “Wow, yesterday’s ride was so good, I’ll go again!” thinks Leanne. Leanne dubs him “Luis the 2nd” after the assistant snorkel instructor yesterday named Luis. This time, Luis the 2nd makes a beeline to the rocks with Leanne in tow on the ring. He doesn’t point out anything and asks for a thumbs up indicating She is ok. We get closer and closer to the rock where Leanne thinks we started.
“But where is the boat? The guide? The other 5 German tourists? My family? My shoes?” Leanne is wondering. Nothing looks familiar on this nondescript Lava Rock as she realizes she alone on a rock with a stranger! If this is a tourist trap, I’m a guppy today!” All this runs through her mind as she gets a bit anxious at this point. Then Luis the 2nd asks for her to give him her flippers. Ok, great, now I don’t even have a decent chance of swimming away from this guy if need be. The worst case scenarios started going through her mind.
Luis the 2nd’s intentions become clearer as he asks Leanne, “What are you doing tonight?” in his best suave voice. Leanne thinks saying, “Oh, well, I don’t really know yet, as I’ll have to check with MY HUSBAND” with said emphasis on husband. L2 continues “You should go dancing tonight at the volcano 🌋. It’s really fun, and I could take you,” Luis the 2nd continues on completely disregarding the husband comment. Maybe he’s invited to? She plainly states “MY KIDS get tired at night, I don’t think I could come.” thinks Leanne, as this usually is the double-whammy. But now it is getting AWKWARD. The conversation comes to dead silence. Luis the 2nd starts swimming again with her in tow. Ten minutes later, there are still no people, no shoes and awkward silence. Leanne is thinking, is this guy really from our boat? She couldn’t remember exactly as she hadn’t taken complete inventory of the boat personnel. Note to self: Take complete inventory of next boat’s personnel. Could it be possible that a random local snorkeler lured her away unsuspectingly with an orange lifesaver and now wants her to dance in a volcano? Leanne thinks its doubtful, but somewhat possible with her guard down a bit in this beautiful setting.
At last, Leanne sees a boat that resembles the boat that brought us here to these non-descriptive black rocks. Yet all these boats are so similar it’s very hard to tell one from another. Leanne calculates it would be rare to be abducted on a black volcanic rock in Galápagos Islands and that she could probably tackle him if absolutely necessary.
They arrive back and Luis the 2nd places his attention now onto retrieving 12 sets of shoes from the rocks. She scans the pile of shoes to find the boys shoes and her flip flops. Whew! Ah, the beautiful feeling of relief. “Oh geez, he was just being really really NICE!” thinks Leanne. In fact, she now believes that Luis the 2nd truly thought she needed rescuing and that’s why he made the beeline to the rocks. And maybe he was being nice offering to show her the dance club. It reminded Leanne of a quote she recently saw which said 95 percent of the stuff you worry about never comes true.
In her defense, every day this clan accepts the unknown, putting our safety and lives into the hands of capable strangers that cater to (and sometimes prey on) tourists. We have been cared for by so many on this trip - in times of sickness, of self-doubt and of unsure places where to place our foot through muddy land or on a rocky boat. Or even where to find a bathroom with toilet paper. We absolutely must rely on the mantra that the world is 99 percent good. Fortunately that’s proving itself true.
Dinner found the clan back at the Royal Rock which is sunset beach bar on the 2nd floor that Kyle and Leanne went to last night for happy hour. With a 360 ocean view, crashing waves and Pina Coladas lined with chocolate sauce, how can one go wrong? We are treated to another brilliant sunset. Isla Isabella just skyrocketed up Leanne’s list of favorite places, especially because she wasn’t actually abducted by Luis the 2nd.
