2-10-20 - Reunion with Bibi in Bogota

Today we see our other “host daughter” Bibiana who lived with us from 2012 – 2013.  Bibiana had to work all weekend so she couldn’t join us in Cartagena but we are extremely pleased to find out she has gotten Monday through Wednesday off work to hang out and take us around Bogota. Bibi worked until 1 am on Sunday evening to finish her work in order to be able to take off some vacation days with us. Both women are so hard working and dedicated to their hard-won tech jobs that it is a privilege for us that Bibiana is missing work for us. Yes!!! We are so so honored.  And excited to see her!

She arrives at our hotel at 9:30 am with the recognizable huge smile that we have missed for the last few years. It has been many years since Bibi has seen the kids and her face shows disbelief as she sees how much the kids have grown and how tall they are.  After a big round of hugs, we head out to see the best of Bogota. 

In the taxi van, we catch-up with Bibi. Bibiana is now 29 years old and got her MBA a few years ago. She has a rising corporate career at a US electronic manufacturing firm headquarters in Washington state.  She manages customer relationships and is in charge of managing imports and exports. Her company recently laid off two-thirds of its staff but she made the cut and was given more responsibility.  

As we arrive at our destination, the van taxi driver asks for 50K pesos. Kyle tells Bibi, “I asked at the apartment concierge and they said it should be 43K pesos.” Bibi goes back and forth with the taxi driver and she tells Kyle that he says the rates recently went up and the hotel must still have the previous rate card.  With no way to know if this is true or not, Kyle forks over the 50K.  Later at the hotel, they confirm that there has been no rate increase and we should have paid 43K.  Score: Colombian Scammers 7, Huebner Touristos 0.  At this point, Kyle is just desperately hoping for 1 point to avoid a shutout.

Today Bibi says she wants to take us to Monserrate mountain that overlooks Bogota.  Kyle face turns pale as he’s still raw from his Machu Picchu ordeal.  Bogota is at 8600-feet which means altitude sickness is definite possible here as well and anything involving going up a mountain gives Kyle a serious case of the flashbacks.

But Bibi reassures Kyle telling him there is a train that takes you to the top and once up there, the walking is not that bad. Monserrate, is a high mountain that dominates the city center horizon rising to 10,340 feet above sea level and containing a beautiful white church that sits high on the Andean mountain staring down on Bogota below. 

The mountain is considered sacred and make people make it a religious pilgrimage route.  In fact, pilgrims used to ascend hours up the hundreds of stone stairs on their bloodied knees as an act of faith to arrive here. Our Catholic guilt sets in as the tram only took 7.5 minutes.  

The first part is the Stations of the Cross nestled amongst endemic lush foliage that meets a beaming sun for its nourishment.  We visit the church with a reclining Jesus that is a place where Catholics have come to thank God for their blessings and seek strength. 

We take a free walking tour that is sanctioned by the site.  We toss coins in a wishing well, try hot chocolate with cheese and a tasting of other Colombian goodies!  It was a two hour tour, we were the only ones on it so it was a private tour, the guide was super nice and the tour was really good so Kyle has no issue with giving them the suggested tip amount. Not many places where you can get a two hour private tour for 9 people for $63.  We leave satisfied though as we weren’t required to tip.  However, we think they might want to add quotation marks around the “free” tour in the future.  

The vista of the expansive Bogota are awe-inspiring as the city spans the underlying valley between the Andes here. The city is absolutely gigantic in terms of physical area and the guide tells us it is 3 times the size (area) of Los Angeles. We can now literally see why Bibi has a two hour commute to and from work. She points out the long red and yellow buses - really three attached buses - that she takes.  And points toward her apartment building.  The stated official population of Bogota is 8 million, but with 1.4 million Venezuelan approved refugees flooding into Bogota in recent years that number is most likely much, much higher.  

We descend down the mountain to a colorful neighborhood famous for its graffiti art.  The murals and frescos are well done covering shopfronts, corner walls and pretty much any surface that serve as a canvas.  The works are so appealing Graffiti tours are popular.  We get our Graffiti tour with Bibi leading us around.  The murals are really cool and add a hip vibe to the neighborhood.

We lunch at a restaurant called El Gato Gris for an authentic Colombian meal.  Bibi orders blackberry and passion fruit smoothies for us.  She smiles brightly and it is wonderful to catch up.  We try a large sampler platter with roasted potatoes, chorizo and cheese.  We are happy to share this local meal with our close friend and former Au pair.  

After lunch, we head to the Museo del Arte Miguel Uhitrati (MAMU), which contained a coveted altar piece with scores of emeralds.  You enter a vault to see it. This collection looks to be owned by Colombia’s central bank. It’s almost 4 pm and the teens balk a little but the museum is right-sized and we cover art from the 1600s to modern day in under an hour.  

Kyle wants to walk a bit farther to Bogotá’s main square, Plaza Bolivar, and so we drink in the life of a Spanish square surrounded by buildings first erected in the 1500s.  We think to ourselves these buildings at least 100 to 500 years older than anything we have in the USA, and well over 300 years before any golf rush in California. 

As we enter the square, there is a woman singing opera on the street corner. Unfortunately, John stayed back to prepare for his concert so he didn’t see it.  We’re not sure if she would be considered good or not, but her tip basket was getting filled up at a rated many times faster than any other street performer in the plaza.  Perhaps and side career for John?

Out tour guide earlier in the day told us to look for the Big Ass Ant Lady in this square. “Whaaaatt?  Did he just say to look for a woman with a large behind?” Leanne thought at that time confused if not slightly offended. We see few vendors selling roasted ants in the square holding big signs that say “Big Ass Ants” and “Aphrodisiac”. The ants are comically called Big Ass Ants for the ants having the disproportional derrière.  Ah, now it makes sense.  The tour guide was saying find the “Big Ass Ants” lady. 

A few locals feeding the pigeons and a handful of tourists with guides try to make sense of this vibrant, alive scene. Lots of life here in the square reminding us of Quito.  We ask Bibi if she’s been here before and she hadn’t been. Bogota is that big that someone who lived there their whole life hasn’t made it there.

We have to split up for taxi’s back so Leanne and Bibi and couple kids go in one and Kyle and the rest in another. So far in Bogota, we have had the apartment order us taxi vans that can hold us all. Here we have to take a regular taxi.  There is a meter but the meter is just displaying a number. Bibi has informed us that there is a rate card that you look up the number on the meter and it shows you the pesos you owe.  When Kyle arrives at the apartment, the drivers waits and then hands him a rate card. He looks it up and pays the amount. 

Low and behold, he later learns that there is the real rate card is hanging on the back of the passenger front seat where Kyle is sitting.  Those “in the know” will reach around and get the rate card.  For those not “in the know” (aka Kyle), if the passenger does not reach around to get the rate card behind the seat, the taxi driver hands them a different rate card where the rates are 30% higher.  Score Colombian Scammer 8, Huebner Touristos 0.  Kyle is becoming increasing doubtful we will avoid a shutout.

In Leanne’s cab ride home after a fun day with Bibi, she gets devastating health news about her mother. Her mother had bladder cancer that was removed ~3 years ago.  A recent biopsy relieved that the cancer has returned in a more aggressive form. There’s nothing worse than receiving news like that from so far away.  Leanne breaks down crying as she tries to process  and get more information on her treatment plan.  She speaks to her mom who insists she has it all under control and there’s no need to worry or alter the trip plans. A tough blow. 

Pizza dinner nearby can serve us well again. With deep chat with Bibi about her life, goals, love and the future.  Life is so very precious. Family must come first.  And Bibi and Doralis are our family too.